North West Scotland 08

During the early part of June, Sue and I grabbed a pre-midge week’s trip to very North West tip of Scotland.
The objective was to paddle down Loch Veyatie and climb Suilvan, one of Scotland remotest mountains.Situated 30 miles north of Ullapool it was quite a trip north from Worcestershire. We tried this two years ago but high winds curtailed that trip.




Paddling down Veyatie

This time the weather forecast looked promising.Veyatie is about 8 miles in length and land locked. Starting from Elphin Fishery (dropped the boat off and then parked back at the church) the weather was better than expected. With a light breeze to our backs we soon arrived down the loch and into Uidh Fhearna, the river that feeds Fionn Loch, but no rain for five weeks had put water levels exceptionally low.
Half an hour of dragging the boat through the shallows saw us at the camp on the shores of Fionn Loch with Suilvan looking majestic in the evening glow.








Next morning a two hour hike up the ramparts soon had us on top of Suilvan giving us a view hard to beat. To the North, Cape Wrath and Ben Hope. To the West we could see the Summer Isles and beyond the Outer Hebrides. To the South Cul Mor, Cul Beag, Stac Polly and above blue sky and sunshine – it had only taken 20 years of dreaming to make it


Suilvan Camp













View from Suilvan across Inverpolly

Later back at the tent and a weather front approaching we decided to head back up Veyatie. An hour dragging the boat through the shallows, then faced with NOW a substantial wind blowing directly down the lock against us and a froth of white horses as far as you could see - bugger !Four hours later rather cold and wet a quick strip and dry clothes put us back in a more comfortable mood. But now due to some unconsiderate people, the fishery gate will be locked in future to stop cars using the access road, so a half mile portage with boat and gear just about finished us off. A quick dash back to Ullapool for fish & chips and a cosy B&B.

Finish back at Elphin Fishery (followed by a half mile portage – up hill). Unfortunately there were no pictures taken during the return paddle due to excess amounts of water on top of the boat……..
Next day saw a leisurely start to provide time for a full English breakfast, shopping and a slow drive north to Scourie camp site. This is a great camp site with views out to Handa. Once the muscles had eased a little, a trip into Loch Laxford was on the cards. This is a sheltered sea loch full of nooks and crannies. It was very scenic but lacked a little in wildlife on the day we paddled.
The last day (Friday) and Sue had decided to up her open water experience. So 'today we would be mostly paddling to Handa'. Handa is a bird sanctuary and resides in the Scottish guide book as 'recommended to be done in settled weather'.We had settled weather, so we had to go………


Launching from Scourie bay and across Handa Sound gave us very calm paddling and views across to The Outer Hebrides and the Point of Stoer - fantastic!!!! Taking the clockwise way round the skerries at the southern end provided some entertainment to us and the colony of very large grey seals soaking up the sun. Once on the west shore all became calm and a hive of activity and an abundant of bird life came into full view. 300ft high cliffs provides homes for Puffins, Guillemots, Artic Terns, Razorbills, Skua's, Great Skua's (bloody hell - there big), Cormorants, shags - all flying, fishing, diving, squawking, pooing.


There are sea stacks and arches to explore although with the birds nesting with young we kept our distance. Time passed as we just floated in amongst the melee and eventually the tide had taken us to the North end and back into Handa Sound. There are only 3 places to stop, and what a place to stop. White sand beach, aquamarine blue waters and a female Artic Tern fishing not 20 yards from us - idyllic.

We opted for a longer stay on the beach and missed the option of paddling to Tarbet for an icecream and eventually and reluctantly headed back to Scourie Bay.

Scotland is hard to beat when you have good weather, and we had very good weather.Until next time…….